Oh, For The Love Of Bacchus…

2008 Wine Cube Cabernet Sauvignon / Shiraz

Look, I know what you mean. It happened like this: we (that’s my wife and I) were walking through Target, and I saw these things. They were boxes. Of wine. But they didn’t look like the old Franzia bag-in-a-box I’d seen on occasion as a kid when my parents would throw a party.

I’d even heard, lately, of really good wine coming in boxes. It’s for ecological reasons, or something like that. So we gave it a shot.

Besides, at $8/L, it has to at least be a good QPR buy, right?

Alright, first, the wine is “bottled” by Trinchero Family Vineyards for Target Corporation, and apparently the grapes hail from the wine superpower region of Lathrop (just south of Stockton, part of the Lodi AVA). Trinchero makes Sutter Home. Mmm mmm good.

I’m not sure why they use the name “Shiraz” for the Syrah grapes that went into making this wine. They didn’t source them from Australia or New Zealand. I don’t know many California producers who use the name Shiraz instead of the more-traditional Syrah.

Second, it has an expiration date.

Just like light beer.

Alright, to the notes. The wine is a very, very dark red color in the glass, nearly purple, with no real sparkle. Completely opaque and a little matte. Once you get past the alcohol sting on the nose (which is incredible since this wine clocks in at a modest 13% ABV), you do get some red fruit, mostly cherry and raspberry.

On the palate, there is absolutely no structure to this wine. No tannins to speak of. It’s incredibly light-bodied, with a finish shorter than Danny DeVito in a catcher’s stance. The flavor notes that do appear are all of the big red fruit variety, but there is a sickliness to this wine’s sacchrine sweetness that really turned my stomach. I couldn’t drink more than a half glass or so (doing my best to give it a shot).

I don’t know who this is for, but it’s not for me.

Verdict: D-

2008 Wine Cube Cabernet Sauvignon / Shiraz

2008 Wine Cube Cabernet Sauvignon / Shiraz

  • http://www.drinknectar.com/ @nectarwine

    Wow, I can't believe you tortured yourself in the name of science (uh, I mean blogging)

    Sweet, cheap grape juice – icky

    Josh

  • http://www.thewineingwoman.com/ Amanda Maynard

    I think by putting Shiraz on the label, they're looking for a certain type of wine drinker and trying to convey that this isn't like an old world Syrah. Rather, it's styled more like an Aussie Shiraz (Yellowtail, perhaps?).

    There are some that will even market a wine as Syrah/Shiraz or Sauvignon Blanc/Fume Blanc. There's no difference in grapes, it's just a marketing thing and possibly them trying to convey that it can't be put into one singular category.

  • http://blog.wine-accessorized.com/ Joshua S. Sweeney

    “Shorter than Danny DeVito in a catcher's stance.” Not that I would have ever come up with this line on my own… but damn you. I want that in MY tasting notes.

  • WineDudeOnline

    Dude, I didnt know if i should cry or laugh. Cry because you actually put yourself through that or laugh at the Devito angle. I'd like to thank you for taking one for the team. Love the post though!
    Kevin

  • http://notesfromthecellar.com Steve Paulo

    Yeah, it was pretty bad, but when I saw it there on the shelf–right next to the paper towels–I decided I had to give it a shot.

  • http://notesfromthecellar.com Steve Paulo

    I didn't think of the “This is a fruitbomb like Yellowtail” angle of an ostensibly California winemaker/packager putting “Shiraz” instead of “Syrah” on the label. I don't think anyone this is aimed at would be put off by “Syrah,” they're probably just more used to seeing Shiraz thanks to the little yellow kangaroo.

  • http://notesfromthecellar.com Steve Paulo

    I try. ;)

  • http://notesfromthecellar.com Steve Paulo

    Yeah, I think even moderately experienced wine drinkers would pick this out blind inf a heartbeat. What would be insanely difficult, however, would be naming the varieties of several Wine Cube wines blind. There is basically zero typicity here.

  • http://notesfromthecellar.com Steve Paulo

    Anything in the name of an entertaining review.

  • http://thebrokewino.wordpress.com/ Sam Klingberg

    I saw all the propaganda for Black Box when they were making their big market push. I've never really taken the time to really taste any boxed wines, maybe I can set up a blind tasting with some friends, but I'm skeptical. I think this style (extra residual sugar, simple fruit) is pretty easy to pick out, it's pretty much just jug wine in a new package.

    Cheers for taking one for the team!

  • http://www.1winedude.com/ 1winedude

    You should have at least finished one entire glass.

    Wuss.

    :-)

  • http://twitter.com/andrewsi Andrew M. Sica

    Thanks for torturing yourself.

    Incidentally, I've tried Black Box Merlot and it is not horrible – the 3wineguys.com reviewed it recently and thought it was decent as well. It was not overly sweet and did taste like merlot.
    If I was having a large party (30+ people) and needed something cheap and decent (or at least drinkable), I'd probably pick it up. Not for home use though :D

  • http://notesfromthecellar.com Steve Paulo

    I… I… I got close, I swear! But that shit had a date with my sink drain.

  • http://notesfromthecellar.com Steve Paulo

    The cashier at Target told us she buys Wine Cube for when she goes camping… and if the point is just to conveniently get drunk, I can understand that. And, if you have to quench the thirst of many many guests, a large container like a box could work, but I'd never, ever serve this particular stuff to any guests of mine.

    The opposing Mathlympics team, maybe. But not guests.

  • Jeannine

    I'm so glad someone else tried this ess first. I have always been tempted due to the “cuteness” of the boxes. Really, that's all that tempted me, but then again, I've been known to buy a bottle (some that ended up very good I may add) based on a purty label :)
    I have refrained from the box o' Target wine and thanks to you, Steve, will just move on entirely!

  • Jeannine

    http://wineintro.com/types/sauvignonblanc.html

    Some interesting facts on the Sav Blanc/Fume Blanc grape. I've heard over my tasting years that back in the 70's the “renaming” was a marketing ploy (apparently by Mondavi per this article) to get people to buy the Sav Blanc by renaming it to Fume Blanc in the bottle, having a rep much like White Zin does today ;)

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