2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Cuvée

Big-Time High-Elevation Cab Blend

I’m a huge fan of this wine, for more than a few reasons.

It’s a mostly-Bordeaux-style blend (called “meritage” (rhymes with “heritage”) here in California), but there’s this dollop of Syrah thrown in for good measure.

2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Cuvée

In general, I’ve found myself becoming a big fan of wine that, while officially from the Napa Valley, is not from the valley floor. One of my favorite Napa reds is Regusci’s “Angelo’s Vineyard” Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon from the eastern edge of the Stag’s Leap AVA. I have adored just about everything I’ve ever tried from Howell Mountain. I’m even going to put that on my birthday list this year: if you want to get me wine, just get me something—anything—from Howell Mountain.

Mount Veeder, an appelation that hugs the Napa/Sonoma county line along the western edge of Napa Valley, is one I haven’t been as familiar with. Most of my Napa Valley experience has been along the iconic St. Helena Highway (a.k.a. Highway 29) or the Silverado Trail, to the east. But that’s simply going to have to change. I want more.

To this wine in particular, then. The 2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Cuvée (whew!) is a gorgeous wine in the glass: a burgundy red core with just barely-lighter ruby edges. The nose shows off subtle, but apparent, fruit notes. Mostly blackberry and raspberry, but some plum as well. The nose more obviously shows off some earthier tones, tobacco, cedar, and cigar box. Very rich.

The wine is medium bodied, a bit lighter than I’d expected, but it shows off right away, with lush, supple tannins and a long, lingering finish. The palate is a bit fruitier than the nose, and some of the notes lighten slightly to cherry and strawberry, but everything is nuanced and in balance. There is structure here, structure like a nun running detention. Not to be trifled with.

This is really great wine. This is really, really easy to recommend wine. I’m a recent convert, but I’m going to be doing some more exploring of Mount Veeder, I can promise you that much.

Price Point: $36

2009 The Prisoner

A Slight Decline, But Still Sublime

I am a big fan of The Prisoner. This is not news to anyone who previously read my rhapsodic review of the 2008 vintage. If you haven’t, feel free to, either now, or when you’re finished here.

I’m also a big fan of this wine, although it does show some dissimilarities with its immediate predecessor.

2009 The Prisoner Napa Valley Red Wine

For one thing, while Orin Swift Cellars is still the name on the bottle, a new crew owns The Prisoner. The 2009 is the first vintage bottled by The Prisoner’s new owners, Huneeus Vintners, who also own (among others) Quintessa and Faust in Napa Valley, Flowers on the Sonoma Coast, and Veramonte in Chile.

I’m not so sure the change in ownership has benefitted the wine. In fact, before finding any of this out, I had already decided I preferred the 2008. Still, this remains one of the single finest value buys in Napa Valley wine in my opinion. At $35 per bottle, you can easily do much, much worse.

In fact, don’t let my hand-wringing over the inside baseball of ownership dissuade you: this is some really, really good wine.

The 2009 Prisoner has a dark burgundy core in the glass, that lightens a bit to red at its edges. On the nose you’ll find ripe cherries, a touch of strawberry and raspberry. The nose is almost entirely fruit, and not quite as complex as the previous vintage. The wine is medium bodied, and the palate gives more of the complex aromas and flavors that are missing a bit from the nose: incredibly bright, jammy raspberry and cherry notes mingle with subtle dark chocolate and just a touch of smoke.

Soft, supple tannins round out the mouthfeel. Incredibly tasty.

Hopefully, Huneeus won’t fix what ain’t broke, and hopefully fans will be able to enjoy The Prisoner for years to come.

This Wine + More Time = Amazing Meritage

2006 Ferrari-Carano Tresor

The barrel room at Ferrari-Carano

Back to beautiful Ferrari-Carano.

As I mentioned in my review of their Eldorado Gold dessert wine, Ferrari-Carano is a pretty spectacular place. Visually stunning, physically impressive, it even smells good there.

One of the wines that Philippe sent my way, and for which I was grateful (not all of them were all that good, to be quite Francis about it) was this one: Their Tresor, a Meritage blend.

I never know whether to call these Meritages, Clarets, or “Bordeaux-style” blends. I know better than to actually call them Bordeaux, the sin of geographical fraudulence weighs heavy. The English call them Clarets, Californians tend to say Meritages. So I guess I should go with the latter.

If you didn’t pull it all out of there, what this all boils down to (my friend) is that the 2006 Ferrari-Carano Tresor is made up of cabernet sauvignon (79%), malbec (9%), merlot (5%), petit verdot (5%), and cabernet franc (2%).

The wine’s color is very dark, almost, though not quite, nebbiolo dark, with an almost-black core that lightens to ruby red edges. The Tresor’s nose is quite interesting: wet stone and earth mingle with anise and blackcurrant and just a hint of stinky barnyard, kind of a horse blanket aroma. Subtle, though.

The wine is full-bodied and tannic, with a big big structure. The alcohol needs time to soften the tannins, I think, and right now isn’t really the time to be drinking this wine. The notes here are fairly lacking in fruit, with most of the bouquet featuring pepper and more earthy aromas.

It’s gonna be a good one in a few years, I think… but 2010 might be just a bit early to be drinking the 2006 Tresor. It was released just last September, and needs some bottle time. The Tresor can be found in the $40-$50 range and will be well worth it in two or three years, but right now, it’s just a bit immature.

Verdict: B+ (with the hope I taste it again in 2013 or so)

(photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/elcapitan/ / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)