2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Cuvée

Big-Time High-Elevation Cab Blend

I’m a huge fan of this wine, for more than a few reasons.

It’s a mostly-Bordeaux-style blend (called “meritage” (rhymes with “heritage”) here in California), but there’s this dollop of Syrah thrown in for good measure.

2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Cuvée

In general, I’ve found myself becoming a big fan of wine that, while officially from the Napa Valley, is not from the valley floor. One of my favorite Napa reds is Regusci’s “Angelo’s Vineyard” Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon from the eastern edge of the Stag’s Leap AVA. I have adored just about everything I’ve ever tried from Howell Mountain. I’m even going to put that on my birthday list this year: if you want to get me wine, just get me something—anything—from Howell Mountain.

Mount Veeder, an appelation that hugs the Napa/Sonoma county line along the western edge of Napa Valley, is one I haven’t been as familiar with. Most of my Napa Valley experience has been along the iconic St. Helena Highway (a.k.a. Highway 29) or the Silverado Trail, to the east. But that’s simply going to have to change. I want more.

To this wine in particular, then. The 2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Cuvée (whew!) is a gorgeous wine in the glass: a burgundy red core with just barely-lighter ruby edges. The nose shows off subtle, but apparent, fruit notes. Mostly blackberry and raspberry, but some plum as well. The nose more obviously shows off some earthier tones, tobacco, cedar, and cigar box. Very rich.

The wine is medium bodied, a bit lighter than I’d expected, but it shows off right away, with lush, supple tannins and a long, lingering finish. The palate is a bit fruitier than the nose, and some of the notes lighten slightly to cherry and strawberry, but everything is nuanced and in balance. There is structure here, structure like a nun running detention. Not to be trifled with.

This is really great wine. This is really, really easy to recommend wine. I’m a recent convert, but I’m going to be doing some more exploring of Mount Veeder, I can promise you that much.

Price Point: $36

2008 J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon

Surprising, Young Paso Cab Blend

Last autumn, I participated, if only briefly, in the judging process for the Cabernet Shootout. I discovered that day a few truths: first, tasting and judging a whole slew of wines in one afternoon really isn’t for me. Second, I really quite enjoy Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon.

First off, who is J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines? A big, big, big winery. The 16th largest in California, with an annual production of over 1,000,000 cases. That’s over 2.3 million gallons of juice every year.

Supermarket Surprise

So, this is no boutique shop. No newcomer, scratching for attention. Probably not the kind of winery that sends samples to wine bloggers, for instance. This bottle, I tasted because a friend brought it over to the house, and wanted to know my opinion.

My opinion, frankly, surprised me. This ain’t so bad!

First things first, the 2008 J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon is not just cabernet sauvignon. It’s a blend of many red grapes: 78% cab sauv, 9% petite sirah, 4% syrah, 3% merlot, 3% petit verdot, 2% cabernet franc, and 1% (and this is my favorite part) “other reds.”

Ha! “Other reds,” seriously? That’s creepy.

But what of the wine? It’s got a dark, almost black core in the glass, and lightens to ruby red edges. On the nose are very cabernet-esque aromas of blackberry, raspberry, and cedar.

The wine is medium-bodied, with something of a short finish. It’s fruit-forward, with more blackberry and raspberry on the palate, but also some nice, though tight, tannin structure that makes me think it will age, if only 2-5 years or so.

It’s really quite enjoyable, and shows an age-worthiness and structure that seems out of place of its production level and its sub-$10 price point. Which makes it the first-ever recipient of my Supermarket Surprise badge.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 B Legacy Reserve Merlot

Masterful Merlot Makes Me Melt

2006 B Legacy Reserve Merlot

I’ve reviewed a few merlots, though most have been in meritage blends or as part of what is officially a cabernet sauvignon. Of the wines that are 100% (or, at least, predominantly) merlot that I have reviewed, the verdicts ranged from D to B+.

I’m not the biggest merlot fan on the planet, this is something I’ve said numerous times. However, I loathe no variety, and am always looking for the merlot to turn me back to the grape.1 I say “back” because the first red wine I drank with any regularity2 was merlot. I drank a lot of it, though not with much discretion.

But I digress. The fact of the matter is, I think I found that merlot. I think I found a wine made of 100% merlot grapes, from Napa, no less,3 that has gotten me truly excited about merlot in general again.

Classique des Classiques

This may end up meaning I’m disappointed a lot as I drink merlots that don’t stand up to this one, but c’est la vie.

So what can you expect from the 2006 B Legacy Reserve Merlot from Bolen Family Estates? A lot. In the glass, the juice is gorgeous, shimmering slightly from ruby red at the core, to an only-slightly-lighter cardinal red on the edges.

The nose is subtle, and although the alcohol content is relatively high,4 there is no residual heat on the nose to get in the way. In the way of what? Exceptional notes of stewed raspberry, dark cherries, and a hint of allspice. Very inviting, very nuanced.

The B Legacy doesn’t disappoint when you actually go to drink it. It’s medium bodied, with great structure and balance. At first, the majority of the experience is rich, lush, fleshy fruit, a lot of plum and cranberry. Eventually, this wine tastes like Christmas. The cranberry is joined by hints of nutmeg and peppermint that just top off the experience.

It’s delicious wine, and very surprising for me.5 Only 120 cases of the 2006 were made, and as you ought to expect given that’s the case, it’s not cheap at $60 per bottle. It is, however, worth it.

Verdict: 94/100

(photo: surreptitiously, and with all apologies, stolen from Bolen Family Estates’ website.)

Footnotes

  1. I’m sure Chateau Petrus would do it, but I don’t happen to have $400 on me… ↩
  2. In my—ahem—”early” 20s ↩
  3. The Oak Knoll District, a personal favorite, to be exact ↩
  4. Forgive me, everyone, for going off memory only here, but I believe it was above 14% ↩
  5. Being, as I am, no great lover of merlot ↩