2009 Donkey & Goat Four Thirteen

Wineries? In Berkeley?!

Let’s not get carried away.

Obviously, the wine I’m telling you about today is not from grapes grown in Berkeley, California. While I have not scoured the streets, alleyways, and head shops of the home not only of the great University of California Golden Bears football team, but also of aging hippies, I do know I have never found a vineyard in Berkeley.

And I know for sure, that wine grapes are not what’s growing in People’s Park.

That having been said, there are wineries in Berkeley. Oakland and San Francisco, as well. Small-batch, family-owned boutique wineries in Northern California have begun setting up shop in the Bay Area’s urban centers, and not just the fertile valleys of Napa and Sonoma counties.

Because they do not grow their own grapes (at least not on the estate!) but instead buy them from grapegrowers all over the state, what chance these winemakers have to set themselves apart is often in the blending.

2009 Donkey & Goat Four Thirteen

Which is why I was so excited to taste this, a Chateauneuf-du-Pape-style red blend from one of Berkeley’s best-named wineries, A Donkey & Goat Winery.

Seriously. Nailed the name.

So, what do we have here in Donkey & Goat’s 2009 Four Thirteen blend? 46% syrah, 33% grenache, 18% mourvedre, and 3% counoise, all from El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills. Details and digits aside, we also have a very tasty wine.

The first thing you want to do after you pour yourself a glass of the Four Thirteen is take look. The wine is stunning. Blood red at the core— really vibrant— with ruby edges that are only slightly lighter.

On the nose, the heat shows off just a bit— never a good thing, but here, not enough to kill off the nose’s strong points. Blackberry, black pepper, leather, and notes of dark caramel. Rich, strong, weighty, meaty, and hefty. This wine is like Gerard Depardieu: it’s got a nose with gravitas.

The wine is medium bodied, and the finish is passable but could be longer. The nose is so awesomely bombastic that the palate could be a bit of letdown, were it not so damn tasty. Black fruits, earth and leather, and a hint of cassis round out this wine’s palate. I do wish it packed the punch hinted at by the nose, but I’m not going to complain.

Wine this good just doesn’t come around all that often. And in my experience, it never comes from Berkeley.

Bravo, Donkey & Goat. Bravo.

Price Point: $30

2010 Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare

More Than Just a Summer Sipper

Today’s the 4th of July, and if you live outside the United States, perhaps that means nothing more to you than a date and a month. But for those of us who live in the USA, today is, of course, Independence Day.

And, for those of us who spent a grip of years in college studying Political Science,1 this is a particularly excellent holiday.

The proper way to celebrate gaining independence from British rule, and perhaps even more importantly, crafting a document like the Declaration of Independence2 can be summed up in three letters:

B. B. Q.

2010 Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare

Hopefully you are grilling the flesh of something dead today. If you’re a vegetarian, vegan, or other herbivorous type, then grill up some delicious fresh veggies. But break out the barbeque, sit out in the sun, maybe take in some baseball3 or just lounge at the park or by the pool. Catch some fireworks tonight.

But whatever you do, you’ll probably be drinking.4 Now, it might seem like a no-brainer that beer is not only a better choice for barbeques or other outside activities, but also a better choice for America FUCK YEAH Day. But to that, I say “pish-tosh.” Wine can be just what the doctor ordered on a hot day.

Take this wine, for instance. Seriously, have a sip. You didn’t think you like pink wine, did you? You do. Everyone does. Some people just don’t know it yet.

The 2010 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare is (like most Bonny Doon wine) a blend of Rhône varieties, predominantly grenache,5 and clocks in at a very reasonable 12.8% ABV.

In the glass, the Vin Gris is a salmony-peach color. Very pretty, and not as pink as what I think most people imagine when they picture a rosé in their mind. On the nose are wonderfully-fragrant notes of peach and apricot, and a whiff of strawberry.

On the palate, the wine has a light body and a medium-length finish. Notes of peach and strawberry mingle with very faint hints of bread or toast, and the wine is ever-so-slightly frizzante.6

It’s delicious. And perfect to break out for your summer barbecues. Highly recommended.

Price Point: $12-$16

Footnotes

  1. Yup. ↩
  2. That took balls. ↩
  3. Despite the popularity of NFL and NASCAR, I would remind my readers that baseball is still America’s Pastime™ ↩
  4. Please drink responsibly. ↩
  5. Roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre are also part of the par-tay. ↩
  6. Meaning it’s a bit bubbly. But not actually bubbly, of course. ↩

2007 Intelligent Design Cuvee

Smart Central Coast Southern Rhône-style Surprise

There were reasons I thought I wouldn’t like Intelligent Design.

I’ll be perfectly honest, I’m not a fan of the name. Sure, this is my personal bias showing as if my zipper were down (XYPB, Steve), but when I hear the term “Intelligent Design,” I think of crazy fundies trying to teach kids creationism in science class. Rubs me more than just a little the wrong way.

2007 Intelligent Design Cuvee

I’ve got another bias to admit, and it’s this: I have something of a bias against wines that state a region on their bottle of either “California” or of one of the Super-AVAs (North Coast, Central Coast, South Coast, Sierra Foothills, Central Valley1). I usually prefer my wine with a bit more geographic specificity than can be offered by these topographical behemoths.

But, as in all things, bias must be set aside (or at least recognized and accounted for) and wine must be tasted and judged on its own merits.

The 2007 Intelligent Design Cuvee from Wesley Ashley Wines is a serious blend of southern Rhône varities: 51.5% carignane, 15% grenache, 14% cinsault, 11% petite sirah, 4.5% mourvèdre, 4% pinot noir.

Yeah, I said pinot noir. That was another reason I eyed this bottle with more than a little suspicion: who blends pinot noir with the southern Rhône Valley?

My biases and prejudices were all totally thrown out the window when I tasted the wine. This is very tasty stuff.

The wine has a ruby red core in the glass, that lightens to edges of dark pink. On the nose is a simultaneously bright-and-dark mixture of stewed cherry, blackcurrant, black pepper, and just a hint of raspberry.

The wine is light-bodied, lighter than its look in the glass belies. There are notes of spice and earth and smoke that mingle with a touch of the nose’s red fruit. Really awesome mixture. My only complaints here are a relatively short finish, and tannin that is just a touch too sharp. Perhaps more time in the bottle will solve the latter issue.

And a small issue it is. This is a very tasty wine from a newcomer to the California wine scene. I know I for one will be paying attention.

Price point: $38

Footnotes

  1. is the Central Valley an “official” Super-AVA now? Is there an “official” status of Super-AVAs? ↩