2004 Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi

This Wine Laughs Derisively And Bellows, “Just Kidding!”

Sometimes a wine is exactly what it says it is. And other times, it lies like a crack addict picked up for a basic traffic violation on an episode of COPS (“that’s not my stem, officer, I swear!!”).

This wine is a liar.

What do I mean by all this? Wherefore art I calling this bitch out? Because the nose and the palate don’t line up. Don’t match. There is little here that you taste, of the things you smell. Capisce?

Now, I am told by some sources that Taurasi is the ultimate expression of aglianico grapes. The only denominazione d’origine controlata e garantita (DOCG) wine made with aglianico is, indeed, Taurasi.

So I can only hope that this is not indicative of Taurasi in general. Or, perhaps, that it is, that I am a fool, and need simply to broaden my rather lackluster bona fides when it comes to tasting Italian wine. Either of these situations is possible. Neither is terrifying.

To the wine, then.

The 2004 Radici Taurasi from Mastroberardino is a very, very pretty wine in the glass. The core is a dark purple, but the edges lighten to a bright red that almost seems out of place (more lies, perhaps?!). On the nose are some wonderful notes of raspberry truffle, cocoa, espresso, and raspberry syrup. It’s big, it smells thick and bright, and oh, so inviting.

And there’s the rub. Because when you taste this wine, you are greeted with none of these notes. The wine is medium bodied with tannins sharp enough to field dress a 12-point buck. The flavor bouquet centers not around dark chocolate and espresso, nor around bright jammy fruit. It’s all earth, stone, and frankly, dirt. It’s even a bit unpleasant.

The tannins (and the DOCG’s reputation) lead me to believe this wine needs more time… but it is already six years past harvest, should be about three past release (the Taurasi DOCG rules require 36 months aging). In reality, that is still young. Is this wine perhaps in an awkward stage?

They say teenagers lie, too. It would make sense.

Verdict: C+

2004 Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi

2004 Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi

2004 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera

The Very Essence of Darkness

Sometimes a wine embodies, figuratively but overwhelmingly, a certain feeling. After I reviewed the ’07 Soffocone, Josh Sweeney (@wineaccguy) referred to my review by saying “@stevepaulo drinks a rustic Italian landscape bottled and poured.”

Sometimes wine is just that descriptive. This is one of those times. All I can do is try to relate it to you.

The 2004 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera is dark. Dark. Dark.

Wonderfully, sumptuously, hauntingly, exasperatingly, frighteningly, delightfully dark. If you wanted to pair a wine with a poetry slam by brooding, self-important Parsons students held at precisely 3:00am in a TriBeCa loft on the night before Halloween, I would suggest this Barolo.

So what’s it like? Guess what it looks like… time’s up… yes, it’s dark, a dark blood red core that does lighten a bit to ruby at the edges. The nose bounces about with chocolate and espresso notes, along with some tobacco, leather and a hint of maple sweetness.

On your palate this wine will come off–all together now–dark. Predominant chocolate and espresso notes meet a full-bodied wine with smooth tannins. As dark as it is, it really does feel like a sinful treat. It’s a joy to drink, actually, which makes it something of an enigma: how can something so dark make you feel so good?

Who knows? Don’t care. Drink up.

Verdict: 92/100

2004 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera

2004 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera

Dunn Howell Mountain, Through The (Recent) Years

I had the opportunity a few weeks ago to taste a vertical selection of Dunn Vineyard’s Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon with cellar master and assistant winemaker, Mike Dunn.

I tasted the wine from the 2002, 2003, 2004, and 2005 vintages, and I have notes to share on each. What I can say at the very least is that Dunn is some very good wine. If you haven’t had it, get your hands on it. There are two labels: Dunn Howell Mountain and Dunn Napa Valley. The former is the more prestigious of the two, with 100% of the grapes coming from the Howell Mountain sub-AVA, whereas the latter will include up to 15% grapes from the Napa Valley floor.

Also a word of warning: these wines aren’t cheap. You’d be hard-pressed to find any of these vintages for less than the $75-$100 range per bottle. So keep that in mind as well. On to the wines.

2002 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

A dark ruby red in the glass, this wine really has the Cali Cab look to it. On the nose is a wonderful wet stone note, a general earthiness, marked with a very dark fruit note (perhaps rhubarb). On the palate are notes of raspberry and cranberry, and while I found the wine nicely structured, the tannins seemed a bit rough for a wine already 8 years from harvest. Perhaps it needs just a bit more time.

Verdict: 86/100

2003 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Even darker-looking in the glass than the ’02, the 2003 Dunn is a dark, dark red. The nose is pleasantly subtle and complex, with notes of black fruit mingling with a leather note. On the palate, this wine felt more mature than the 2002, with softer tannins, good acidity, and subtle notes of raspberry. This is a pretty fantastic Cabernet, and not at all bombastic like some California cult wines seem to be.

Verdict: 91/100

2004 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Speaking of darkening wine… the ’04 is almost black at its core, though it shifts to a brighter red at the edges, a more extreme shift in color than the first two wines showed. The nose here is a bit hot, either its youth or the 2004 growing season showing its stripes, but it is a bit hard to get around. The nose also shows off some red fruit and a dulled, almost like cooked, blackberry. The wine is clean but strong on the palate, with notes of red fruit and leaves. It’s still a bit too hot, and needs some years, but will probably be very good after some more time.

Verdict: 88/100

2005 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

This vintage shows off a bit more in the glass, the color is a rich ruby red in the core, and fades to an almost pastel color on the edges. And this wine is different from the previous three in other ways, as well: the nose is full of forest floor, mushroom and bark, and pine needles. Awesomely stinky in a way. On the palate this wine shows a lot of structure for its relative youth, soft tannins, a good balance of alcohol and acid, with pleasant notes of smoky leather, red cherry, and earth. My favorite of the bunch by a smidge, I think the 2005 Dunn will be exceptional in 10 years’ time.

Verdict: 92/100

(photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jocelyndurston/ / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)