2008 Henry Natter Sancerre Blanc

Super-Stinky Sauv Blanc From France

Usually, I really like stinky sauv blanc. I have reviewed, quite favorably, stinky sauv blancs from the Natural Process Alliance and Clos Pegase. But this wine, from the Sancerre region of the Loire Valley, took stinkiness a step too far, even for me.

That’s not to say it’s bad, per se. But I have a hard time recommending something like this. It’s an acquired taste. If you’re a Sancerre fan, I’m willing to bet this will be up your alley. It clocks in under $30 and if this stank is your thing, you’ll probably want to try it.

But for most people—myself included—this just doesn’t tickle the ol’ proverbial fancy.

The ’08 Natter is gorgeous in the glass, however. A rich, golden shine looks incredibly inviting. It almost appears chardonnayesque, but don’t let that fool you. On the nose, the stank arrives.

Most of what I could discern from the nose of this 100% sauvignon blanc juice was manzanilla olive and fish oil. It was hard to smell past those two rather overpowering aromas. Upon tasting the wine, you get what you might expect from those aromas on the nose. The wine is light bodied, and comes off very briny. Almost a bit like the brine that manzanillas are jarred in.

There is a hint of sweetness, too. And the odors and flavors, while unmistakable, are not altogether unpleasant. But unless you know already that this wine is for you, I’d be willing to bet that it’s not.

2008 Henry Natter Sancerre Blanc

2008 J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon

Surprising, Young Paso Cab Blend

Last autumn, I participated, if only briefly, in the judging process for the Cabernet Shootout. I discovered that day a few truths: first, tasting and judging a whole slew of wines in one afternoon really isn’t for me. Second, I really quite enjoy Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon.

First off, who is J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines? A big, big, big winery. The 16th largest in California, with an annual production of over 1,000,000 cases. That’s over 2.3 million gallons of juice every year.

Supermarket Surprise

So, this is no boutique shop. No newcomer, scratching for attention. Probably not the kind of winery that sends samples to wine bloggers, for instance. This bottle, I tasted because a friend brought it over to the house, and wanted to know my opinion.

My opinion, frankly, surprised me. This ain’t so bad!

First things first, the 2008 J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon is not just cabernet sauvignon. It’s a blend of many red grapes: 78% cab sauv, 9% petite sirah, 4% syrah, 3% merlot, 3% petit verdot, 2% cabernet franc, and 1% (and this is my favorite part) “other reds.”

Ha! “Other reds,” seriously? That’s creepy.

But what of the wine? It’s got a dark, almost black core in the glass, and lightens to ruby red edges. On the nose are very cabernet-esque aromas of blackberry, raspberry, and cedar.

The wine is medium-bodied, with something of a short finish. It’s fruit-forward, with more blackberry and raspberry on the palate, but also some nice, though tight, tannin structure that makes me think it will age, if only 2-5 years or so.

It’s really quite enjoyable, and shows an age-worthiness and structure that seems out of place of its production level and its sub-$10 price point. Which makes it the first-ever recipient of my Supermarket Surprise badge.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon

2008 Pietracupa Fiano di Avellino

Southern Italian Charmer

I have to admit, it’s been rather difficult tracking down information on this particular producer, and this particular wine. I can tell you a few things:

  1. It comes from Fiano di Avellino in Campania, Italy
  2. It is made from 100% fiano grapes
  3. It will run you about $25 or so
  4. It’s pretty yummy

I’ve reviewed a Fiano di Avellino before, and liked it well enough (but not that well). This one, I enjoyed quite a bit more.

To celebrate my getting back on the Italian wine horse (I’ve written more than a few words about Italian wine in the past), I’m looking back at this Italian white that I had a few months ago. Thank goodness, I take great notes.

The Pietracupa Fiano is a shimmering, faint gold color in the glass. The nose is incredibly clean. I get aromas of fresh rain, some rose petal, and a chalky minerality—almost granite smell—that comes off very light, very unencumbered, and very pretty.

The wine is medium-bodied and dry, and is mostly earthy and twiggy in its flavor profile. It’s got quite a bit more complexity to its flavors than most whites I’ve had, Italian or otherwise. There’s a kicker of a flavor in here, too—truffle oil. Yes, really.

A charming, clean, complex, pretty white wine from the south of Italia. All in all, you can’t go wrong with it—assuming you can find it.

2008 Pietracupa Fiano di Avellino