2004 Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi

This Wine Laughs Derisively And Bellows, “Just Kidding!”

Sometimes a wine is exactly what it says it is. And other times, it lies like a crack addict picked up for a basic traffic violation on an episode of COPS (“that’s not my stem, officer, I swear!!”).

This wine is a liar.

What do I mean by all this? Wherefore art I calling this bitch out? Because the nose and the palate don’t line up. Don’t match. There is little here that you taste, of the things you smell. Capisce?

Now, I am told by some sources that Taurasi is the ultimate expression of aglianico grapes. The only denominazione d’origine controlata e garantita (DOCG) wine made with aglianico is, indeed, Taurasi.

So I can only hope that this is not indicative of Taurasi in general. Or, perhaps, that it is, that I am a fool, and need simply to broaden my rather lackluster bona fides when it comes to tasting Italian wine. Either of these situations is possible. Neither is terrifying.

To the wine, then.

The 2004 Radici Taurasi from Mastroberardino is a very, very pretty wine in the glass. The core is a dark purple, but the edges lighten to a bright red that almost seems out of place (more lies, perhaps?!). On the nose are some wonderful notes of raspberry truffle, cocoa, espresso, and raspberry syrup. It’s big, it smells thick and bright, and oh, so inviting.

And there’s the rub. Because when you taste this wine, you are greeted with none of these notes. The wine is medium bodied with tannins sharp enough to field dress a 12-point buck. The flavor bouquet centers not around dark chocolate and espresso, nor around bright jammy fruit. It’s all earth, stone, and frankly, dirt. It’s even a bit unpleasant.

The tannins (and the DOCG’s reputation) lead me to believe this wine needs more time… but it is already six years past harvest, should be about three past release (the Taurasi DOCG rules require 36 months aging). In reality, that is still young. Is this wine perhaps in an awkward stage?

They say teenagers lie, too. It would make sense.

Verdict: C+

2004 Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi

2004 Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi

2007 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino

An Aromatic White From Campania, Italia

My virtual trip-around-Italy-via-vino continues today, with a stop in the southern Italian hills above Naples, in Campania. It may be simply my inexperience talking, but I’d never heard of the Fiano grape, or of Fiano di Avellino, before trying this wine. If you’re like me in that regard, then follow my lead and give it a shot.

Maybe.

Basically, if you dig big nosed Sauvignon Blanc, or Viognier, you might like Fiano di Avellino. If your wine proclivities skew strictly red, or your idea of a good white is either a buttered oak barrel Chardonnay or an acidic, tight, structured Dry Riesling, this may not be for you. That being said, let me describe my experience.

The wine is very light in the glass, almost clear. Very much like I’m used to seeing with Sauv Blanc. On the nose is an interesting set of notes. Mostly mineral in nature (comes off like vegetable garden, or sometimes olive oil) there is a hint of an aged cheese (parmesan or pecorino) here as well. It’s interesting, and I liked it, but I can see how it will not be for everyone.

The wine is clean, crisp and light-bodied. A very easy drinking wine, the 2007 Mastroberardino still maintains enough acidity to be a food-pairing wine. The major notes are of citrus (especially like a lime zest thing going on) and tropical (pineappleesque, if you forgive my preciousness), and herbal varieties. I found the wine refreshing and enjoyable, but I have a hard time recommending it outright.

Fans of aromatic whites should run right out and get some, however.

Verdict: B-

2007 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino

2007 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino