Odd Blends Do Not Always Work
I’m always down for interesting, different blends. Steven Kent Winery tosses its hat in this particular ring with the Insieme. The Insieme I tasted was non-vintage: some of the grapes were harvested in 2006, and some in 2007. It’s a blend of 34% mourvedre, 30% syrah, 20% zinfandel, and 16% grenache. It’s also 15% ABV, so you better be in the mood for the alcohol.
For me, that alcohol level was kind of a turn-off. It made the nose of the wine smell like rubber and alcohol. It wasn’t disgusting, it wasn’t completely off-putting, but I could tell that the alcohol content of the wine (which I guessed at at the time, didn’t know the exact amount until later) was overpowering other notes on the nose.
The only fruit note I noticed on the palate was kind of a sour cherry, or perhaps black cherry. The wine was very tight, and rough and tannic. I’d like to say it was simply youth, and the wine needs to be laid down for 5-10 years. However, it’s my (as of yet still undereducated) understanding that higher-ABV wines do not cellar well, which leaves me at a bit of a conundrum. I suppose at $30 for the bottle of Insieme, I could buy some, lay it down myself, and try it again in 2016 or so.
But I’d rather spend my money on more enjoyable wine.
Verdict: C+
Alcohol, Alcohol, Alcohol
We drink wine to get drunk.
OK, not always. And not exclusively. But let’s face it, the fact that the delicious grape juice with the intricate and far-flung flavor profiles also contains alcohol is an attraction. But everything, as some famous book makes a point of mentioning, in moderation.
Which is why dessert wines can get a bit interesting. They’re always sweeter, they’re sold in smaller bottles, and they’re usually pretty high in alcohol. This one in particular hits that last note.
The Steven Kent Cab Port is 20% ABV. Yes, 20%. The alcohol is heavy on the nose and palate, so you better be prepared. The nose also features some great candied fruit and sugar notes. On the palate are some notes of a general “red fruit” variety (the sugar and alcohol overpower specificity), and a bit of spicy peppermint.
All in all, while it doesn’t remind me of the ruby or tawny Portos I’ve had from Portugal, it was a tasty treat. Like most port wine, I’m sure it would pair amazingly well with chocolate. The darker the better.
Verdict: B
One of the Great Whites of the East Bay
OK, to be fair, there just aren’t that many wineries in the East Bay, and the vast majority are located in Livermore Valley. One of the Valley’s best tasting experiences is the wait-to-be-escorted-to-your-table, paired-with-parmesan-almonds-breadsticks-and-cranberries, served-from-a-decanter tasting room at Steven Kent Winery.
This is a Livermore winery famous for its whites. I’d had the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc before, and while the Sauv Blanc was not on the tasting menu for the day (it was dominated by Cab Sauv, including a 20 ABV Cab Sauv Port!), I and everyone in my party were very much looking forward to this Chardonnay.
The color is a rich, deep golden in the glass, which makes it look a whole lot like a Napa Chard. One whiff, however, and any thoughts of big, bold, buttery oak all go out the window.
The nose is herbaceous and pungent, with some really great sweet notes of pear and citrus. The citrus is more like lemon or lime, not quite as sweet as, say, grapefruit.
The herbs from the nose carry through on the palate, but the citrus and fruit notes turn lightly sour and acidic. Lime notes and sour apple notes make this a perfect food-pairing wine. The server suggested we try the dried cranberries with the wine, and while that was good, we discovered for ourselves that the real treat was the parmesan. The salty aged cheese complimented the wine perfectly.
I seriously enjoyed this Chardonnay, and could happily recommend it to those even a bit wary of California Chards, preferring to eschew buttered oak barrel. This is acid, and fruit, and herbs and flowers, but all in a wonderfully understated way. A real jewel of the Valley.
Verdict: A