2006 Tamas Sangiovese Riserva
My very first Sangiovese was just three and a half months ago, so I’m by no means a Sangiovese expert. But the red Italian grape is one I am growing very quickly fond of.
Well, back up a sec. My first Sangiovese labelled as “Sangiovese” was 3.5 months ago. I’ve had Chianti for years. But I digress.
That Sangiovese last October was from Tamas Estates in the Livermore Valley. So’s this one. But they took extra special care with their Sangiovese Riserva, and the wines are very, very different indeed.
On the nose are some light spice notes that initially made think of Zinfandel, but then, quickly, sweet red fruit that is all Sangiovese. The wine is medium-bodied with a creamy, yet light, jamminess. Notes of raspberries and sweet cherries are here and very nice, but I never felt this wine was too sweet, or overly fruit-forward. I don’t tend to care for too sweet wines, or juicy juice boxes (like Tamas’ 2007 Zinfandel Riserva), and this was neither.
I’d say that in general, Tamas Estates is doing Italian wine right, right here in the Livermore Valley. And that goes double for their Sangiovese Riserva.
Verdict: A-
The “Prima Red” Lives Up To Its Name
Yeah, I’m back, raving about yet another wine from the Livermore Valley. Bored yet? Or, are you getting excited about trying some wines you haven’t had from a wine region that maybe you’d never even heard of before I started writing about it?
Oh my, the hubris.
At any rate, this is another winner from Tamas Estates, the Italian variety-focused arm of the Wente Vineyard empire. It’s a blend of 63% Barbera, 25% Merlot, and 12% Syrah. I almost thought, “oh, like a Super Tuscan!” and then I remembered that Barbera’s ancestral home is the Piedmont, not Tuscany. So… a “Super Piedmontan”? Perhaps.
The wine is a dark red in the glass, then lightens slightly, but not much, at the edges. On the nose is a dark chocolate note that actually hides just a bit of red cherry. The chocolate note is obviously the influence of oak mixed with some really great bitter and sweet notes that mingle around your nostrils and cheerily greet each other as they pass. Maybe they even high-five. I can’t be sure.
Good news for this party, it follows through on the palate. Chocolate, spice (like an allspice or ginger or something equally wonderfully bitter) and the cherry turns sour. Which is awesome, of course. The wine is refreshingly light in the mouth and is tannic enough that it might need another year or two. Make no mistake, this is a party wine—something to celebrate with—but it also has enough structure that just thinking about pairing it with a pork tenderloin or Cuban sandwich is getting my mouth watering.
Verdict: A-
Harmony in Port
Sometimes we arrive at the best stuff in the world when we mix’n'match, so to speak.
I’m a combination of ancestors from Portugal, Ireland, the Netherlands, Sweden, England, and maybe even a couple other countries. I’m also completely Californian and American, having been born here, and, frankly, by choosing to embrace these places.
This port-style wine from Livermore Valley’s Tamas Estates is a similar thing. Mixed and matched, with influences both from the heredity of its grapes, and from the location of its birth.
First, some vitals: The wine is mostly barbera (92%, to be exact), but also, and significantly, what isn’t made up of this Italian stalwart is touriga nacional, perhaps Portugal’s finest vitis vinifera. It is 19% ABV, so while not quite as alcoholic as Steven Kent’s Cab Sauv Port, it doesn’t skimp in this regard.
The wine also feels entirely Californian. Some may say this is to the juice’s detriment; however I doubt those people read this blog.
On the nose is an enticing mix of chocolate, cinnamon, and mint. The alcohol scent is sweet and not off-putting. The cinnamon and mint are mellow, while the chocolate note is brash and bold. The port is clean and biting in the mouth, smooth and sweet, and the overriding flavors are mint and spices. The alcohol comes through (how could it not) but is not overwhelming to the other notes and doesn’t kill the whole experience.
A wine to be enjoyed in very small doses. But a wine to be enjoyed, for certain.
Verdict: B+